Château Rayas Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2006

A blend of grenache blanc and clairette, this exceptional white Rhone displays seashell minerality with intense, nervy purity. Restrained notes of fig and lemon don't interfere with the unfettered sensory conduit direct from vineyard to human brain. [***] $155.

Saint-Chamant Blanc de Blancs Brut 2000

Located in Epernay since the 1930s, this small Champagne house is a chardonnay specialist. They emphasize substantial aging before release for all of their wines; I understand from Stéphane Coquillette, the current family member running the show, that even their latest non-vintage release dates from 2001.

The 2000 is a powerful, dry wine showing notes of toasty, almond-y complexity. If I were to compare it some other great Blanc de Blancs, I would say that it has more in common with the slightly austere Le Mesnil from Krug rather than the ethereal Le Mesnil from Salon. [**½] $86.

LIOCO Carneros Pinot Noir 2007

LIOCO is a new-ish California mission-themed winery: to produce "wines of origin." So far, so good. This Sonoma pinot noir is their "regular" bottling and it is an exemplary wine in a difficult category. No sweet raspberry candy here, it is vinified dry and shows only judicious use of oak. Not exactly earthy, but the pristine cassis fruit is so distinctive that I'm inclined to give it the benefit of the doubt and say that this wine shows terroir! A joy. [**½] $39.

Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 1986

A honeymoon purchase at the winery, many, many, years ago. I'm really old. But the wine wasn't! A near-perfect cork allows access to supreme Tuscan wine situated at its aging apex. A wine of terrific flavor-depth considering its average level of density, showing roses and violets, almost à la Piemonte, but with a more supple tannin structure. The understated licorice notes and the flamboyant black plum notes both become progressively more obvious with continued aeration. Lovely. [***] Estimated: $90.