Pignan Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2006

Frequently, as here, Pignan is a "second" wine to Rayas only in price. Great depth without being at all heavy handed, it flirts with gran cru Burgundy earthiness and agility. White pepper, violets and fresh leather form an unlikely triad of lively exuberance. [***] $107.

Saint-Chamant Blanc de Blancs Brut 2000

Located in Epernay since the 1930s, this small Champagne house is a chardonnay specialist. They emphasize substantial aging before release for all of their wines; I understand from Stéphane Coquillette, the current family member running the show, that even their latest non-vintage release dates from 2001.

The 2000 is a powerful, dry wine showing notes of toasty, almond-y complexity. If I were to compare it some other great Blanc de Blancs, I would say that it has more in common with the slightly austere Le Mesnil from Krug rather than the ethereal Le Mesnil from Salon. [**½] $86.

Jean-Phillippe Fichet Meursault Chevalières 2007

Unlike its namesake in Puligny, in Meursault 'Chevalières' is a lieux-dits, or recognized but unclassified single vineyard site. In any case, textbook Meursault, sumptuous, textured and almost heavy. Lending coherence is nicely developed acidity hiding somewhere in a pool of cream. [**½] $75.

J.L. Chave Saint-Joseph 'Offerus' Rouge 2006

Earthy-dry, finely tuned, correct, with evident complex smokiness. A relief in its lack of ostentation. I find that Saint-Joseph is the most overlooked of the high-potential syrahs of the northern Rhone, although they can be hit or miss. This is a hit. [**] $38.