LIOCO is a new-ish California mission-themed winery: to produce "wines of origin." So far, so good. This Sonoma pinot noir is their "regular" bottling and it is an exemplary wine in a difficult category. No sweet raspberry candy here, it is vinified dry and shows only judicious use of oak. Not exactly earthy, but the pristine cassis fruit is so distinctive that I'm inclined to give it the benefit of the doubt and say that this wine shows terroir! A joy. [**½] $39.
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