Pertinace Barbaresco Marcarini 2004

Produttori di Barbaresco is not the only extraordinary cooperative in Barbaresco; Pertinace, formed in the early 1970s, is producing a few lovely cru level wines. Ethereal and properly delicate, the Marcarini is showing finely sifted earth and pretty nebbiolo notes of white truffles and assorted undergrowth. Classical length along with (malolactic) softness. [**½] $60.

Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 2004

An exercise in sheer elegance and nebbiolo purity. Lovely sottobosco notes of fall leaves just prior to decay and fresh truffles lead to a midpalate that is, well, impenetrable, although dried roses hover just above the surface. Present is that rare level of complexity that comes only with extraordinary balance and depth, rather than overstated corpulence, found almost exclusively in Barolo, Barbaresco and great red Burgundy. Perhaps a deathbed wine, if one lives long enough to see it through to maturity. [***½] $107.

Jean-Phillippe Fichet Meursault Chevalières 2007

Unlike its namesake in Puligny, in Meursault 'Chevalières' is a lieux-dits, or recognized but unclassified single vineyard site. In any case, textbook Meursault, sumptuous, textured and almost heavy. Lending coherence is nicely developed acidity hiding somewhere in a pool of cream. [**½] $75.

Coffele Recioto di Soave 'Le Sponde' 2006

A wee bit of an in-your-face bruiser compared to the wine of similar provenance in the previous blog entry, and yet... lovely and ultimately well-mannered. Intense, intensely sweet, showing fairly obvious notes of botrytis. A wine to let linger on the palate. As if there is a choice. [**½] 500ml: $48.

Ca' Rugate Recioto di Soave 'La Perlara' 2007

The slightly elevated alcohol in this passito-method dessert wine is in no way obtrusive, allowing the (100%) garganega fruit to express lovely miele di castagna (chestnut honey) in all its glorious delicacy. Complex and subtle. [**] 500ml: $43.

Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru En Caillerets 2006

As is unique to Pousse d'Or, an almost supernatural level of richness and depth among Volnays. At the same time, a sense of authenticity and pristine pinot noir fruit, presenting that elusive magic combination of translucent earth and fruit on the vine combined with endless plush silk on the palate. Almost too sensual to be consumed in mixed company. A supreme balancing act and likely a twenty-year wine. [***] $112.

St. Innocent Pinot Noir 'Temperance Hill' 2007

From the Willamette Valley, only about ten miles outside of Salem, Oregon, St. I's Temperance Hill site is at a relatively high elevation (723 feet), leading to unusually late harvest and truly impressive concentration. A complex, age-worthy wine, presently showing a bit of flint and tar, as found in some "traditional" South African Pinotage, only less so. Thankfully. [**] $39.