Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 2004

An exercise in sheer elegance and nebbiolo purity. Lovely sottobosco notes of fall leaves just prior to decay and fresh truffles lead to a midpalate that is, well, impenetrable, although dried roses hover just above the surface. Present is that rare level of complexity that comes only with extraordinary balance and depth, rather than overstated corpulence, found almost exclusively in Barolo, Barbaresco and great red Burgundy. Perhaps a deathbed wine, if one lives long enough to see it through to maturity. [***½] $107.