Colterenzio 'Pfefferer' (Moscato Giallo) Alto Adige 2008

Tropical, off-dry and gorgeous. Abandoning Colterenzio's usual finely made but carefully controlled style, this is far and away the most over-the-top wine that I've tasted from this excellent producer. Silly-generous and a blast. Lychees and Asian spices coat the palate. [**+] $16.

Principiano Barolo 'Boscareto' 2004

Principiano's top cru, from a desirable south-southwest facing vigneto. Intensely perfumed, especially for a wine from the often restrained if classical 2004 vintage. Pleasantly light on the tar but rich with sottobosco notes, this is, in my experience, Principiano's best effort to date. Power and silk, it's a textbook example of a steel hand in a silk glove. High long range potential. [***] $98.

J.L. Chave Saint-Joseph 'Offerus' Rouge 2006

Earthy-dry, finely tuned, correct, with evident complex smokiness. A relief in its lack of ostentation. I find that Saint-Joseph is the most overlooked of the high-potential syrahs of the northern Rhone, although they can be hit or miss. This is a hit. [**] $38.

Deor (Cielo e Terra) Prosecco Rosé

Seems appropriate for the initial post to concern a bubbly. Perhaps my first true rosé Prosecco, deep salmon in color. 49% raboso (a red grape indigenous to NE Italy), it exudes fresh red pit-fruits, particularly a black friar plum, kernel and all. Quite exciting as Proseccos go, but, then, an entirely different grape. [**] $12.