Château Rayas Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2006

A blend of grenache blanc and clairette, this exceptional white Rhone displays seashell minerality with intense, nervy purity. Restrained notes of fig and lemon don't interfere with the unfettered sensory conduit direct from vineyard to human brain. [***] $155.

Saint-Chamant Blanc de Blancs Brut 2000

Located in Epernay since the 1930s, this small Champagne house is a chardonnay specialist. They emphasize substantial aging before release for all of their wines; I understand from Stéphane Coquillette, the current family member running the show, that even their latest non-vintage release dates from 2001.

The 2000 is a powerful, dry wine showing notes of toasty, almond-y complexity. If I were to compare it some other great Blanc de Blancs, I would say that it has more in common with the slightly austere Le Mesnil from Krug rather than the ethereal Le Mesnil from Salon. [**½] $86.