Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 1985

Christmas dinner wine. An interesting aeration experience with a 24-year-old wine; I'm used to great wines being closed or mute and opening up with time in decanter. In this case, after struggling with a more-than-difficult cork, the wine seemed to be substantially faded, judging by a quick taste immediately post-decanting along with a slightly oxidized nose. Granted, surprising given the aging potential of Monprivato. Then, after some two hours in decanter, as the last glasses were poured, the Barolo is reanimated, fleshes out, in fact becomes of the flesh, showing classic aged beefiness, the fruit becomes fully intact and the bouquet becomes redolent of eye watering sottobosco-based complexity. Quite the sleight of hand.
Incidentally, as evidenced when decanted through cheesecloth, this wine threw the jammiest, most substantial deposit that I've ever seen, save a 40-year-old bottle of Vintage Port.
A view of the vineyard is below. For an image of a similar label, see much further below. [***½] Estimated: $200.

Le Ragose Amarone 2003

Chocolate. Fudge. Brownie. As great as Le Ragose's Valpolicellas have been over the years, their Amarone has often lacked a bit of intensity and classicism. Finally, the 2003 shows vintage-typical explosive fruit along with firm, masculine structure. Asian spices and fresh morning earth. A delight. [***] $71.

Duval-Leroy 'Femme de Champagne' 1995

A very fine Champagne from a family-owned outfit, the Femme is about ¾ chardonnay, the remainder being pinot noir. Not as meaty as D-L's underpriced basic Brut, but genuinely complex with notes of brioche and toasted almonds. Delicate but satisfying. [**½] $134.